Sporting my new swimsuit, I glide into the
warm embrace of exquisite luxury. Glancing up, I’m awe-struck. The tranquil
indoor and outdoor pools of liquid velvet are surrounded by the magnificent
mountain range of the Dolomites; spectacular but also comforting. The dramatic
snow-capped peaks seem to affectionately cradle the quaint little village of
Ortisei in Val Gardena in this northern Italy paradise.
Here I am at the five-star Adler Spa Resort transported into
the arms of pure indulgence by a quick flight out of Gatwick to Verona and a
pleasant taxi drive through verdant countryside to this heaven on earth.
I’m travelling with an interesting group, Sue and Bethan,
the capable PR gals who have organised the jaunt and fellow journalists,
Briony, a seasoned traveller and skier, lovely Lucy, fit and slim with a mop of
blonde curls and Rob, who’s in training for a charity challenge, cycling 300
miles from London to Paris. I’m the only unfit one daunted by the strenuous
mountain hike planned for tomorrow. I’d love to stay here gliding around the
pool and staring at the view but adventure calls!
But first there’s the serious business of sampling the
gourmet food! We meet the delightful Alessandra who shows us around the resort.
The exclusive Adler Balance, offering a vast range of medical assessments and natural
health treatments, is connected by a beautiful underground corridor to the
luxurious Adler Dolomiti; the largest
wellness facility in the Dolomites. It has three distinct zones: Dolasilla for
beauty & vitality, Aguana where the pools, including thermals are located,
and AdlerFit for sport & fitness.
The private Ladies’ Sauna is set in an opulent Arabian-style
relaxation
dome permeated with the delicate scent of roses while deep
underground, the
The Adler Spa Resorts have been owned and lovingly operated
by seven generations of the Sanoner family for 200 years, dedicated to top
quality, beautiful and innovative facilities and gentle, natural health care.
Ah yes, the irresistible food! We meet around the buffet of
freshly baked apple strudel and delectable desserts for afternoon tea on the
terrace, as we chat and watch the activity in the village streets below.
Back in my spacious natural timber room, I sprawl on the
massive bed. There’s a comfy sofa, desk, elegant bathroom with huge shower and
even an automatic light in the toilet (which turned out to be very handy when
stumbling around in the dark) and of course the omnipresent breathtaking view
of lush meadows dotted by immaculate farmhouses with the Dolomites backdrop
against a vivid blue sky.
The peaceful village of Ortisei has around
5000 residents and 5000 visitor beds so the ratio of locals and tourists is
kept in balance to ensure an undisrupted, genteel lifestyle. Set in South Tyrol,
this glorious haven boasts a fascinating mixture of German and Italian culture.
Historically the region was part of Austria then became part
of northern Italy after the First World War. Locals speak both German and
Italian and keep alive the traditional language of Ladin. The rich cuisine
draws from both cultures using the fresh ingredients of local farmers; nutritious
herbs and vegetables and dairy foods from contented cows grazing in alpine
meadows.
I get to savour the fresh, creamy dairy in the gourmet
banquet prepared by a dedicated team of highly-trained chefs. We reconvene for
dinner at 7.30 in the sophisticated dining room with impeccably dressed and
attentive waiters. As a vegetarian, I savour the local delicacy of forest mushrooms
and chestnut soup (to die for), homemade pasta, spiced vegetables and tofu. My
companions enjoy superbly cooked fish and meat dishes that melt in the mouth. The
desserts are sublime. We all stagger off to our beds with full bellies ready to
face tomorrow’s ascent into the mighty Dolomites.
Exploring the Top of
the World
Hubi is a man clearly happy with his life. Our cheerful
guide has been hiking his
We climb aboard the shiny red capsule to go soaring above
the treetops and up the mountain slope to the first plateau. As we gaze across
the panoramic vista, Hubi explains that the towering Dolomites are made of fossilised
coral. In winter, the treacherous peaks provide adrenalin-fuelled exhilaration
for skilful skiers while the gentle slopes and vast fields of soft snow unleash
endless fun for all ages and abilities.
While a favourite ski resort for an annual influx of Germans
and Italians, the world-class alpine resort is a best-kept secret from British
holidaymakers (or it was until I
spilled the beans!) And during summer the natural playground is a magnet for keen
cyclists and hikers.
Hubi cracks the whip and we set off on the first leg of our
hike, “just a short walk” he says, smiling and 20 minutes later we arrive,
sweaty and puffing, at the glorious new Adler
Mountain Lodge, which only opened last year.
Our intrepid Rob opts for a mountaintop bike ride while two
athletic Italians and a petite German lady, Lena join our group for the dizzy
ascent to the ultimate lookout. We’re driven to the chairlift and swaying
mid-air I start to feel queasy and Hubi tells me that weird sensation is
altitude sickness!
We hike the craggy paths, coming across herds of pretty tan
and white cows grazing on lush pasture and a tame Palomino, glistening in the
sunshine eager for a pat and photo session! As we climb higher and higher my
heart pounds and I’m gasping for breath. The fit hikers show mercy and slow
down until I recover and we trek onward and upward finally arriving at
Puflatsch Umrundung, with a majestic view that stretches from Austria to the
north, Switzerland to the west and Italy to the south! The reward was worth the
exertion! This is just glorious and such a rare privilege! Hubi says this is
the very heart of the Dolomites and we proudly take a group photo with the
Adler flag!
Ah but now there’s the descent! Hubi coaxes me,
Over a delicious lunch chatting with Lena I discover she is
an emergency heart surgeon so I was certainly in the right company for my
challenging lofty hike!
We are treated to a guided tour of the luxurious lodge with
18 impressive rooms and 12 superb chalets surrounded by infinity pools and
pampering facilities perfectly located amongst magnificent UNESCO World
Heritage Site scenery where you could gaze at the mesmerising mountains forever.
Sadly we must leave for another one of Hubi’s “short walks”
back to the Mont Seuc cable car. Thankfully, Briony coaches me through my
mental and physical exhaustion with deep breathing and incremental goals to
reach each next tree until I finally flop in the red bubble for the return trip
down the mountain to Ortisei and the promise of a well-earned full-body
massage!
Ah bliss! The fragrance of the aromatherapy oils and gentle
touch of the masseuse is heaven-sent and that evening we share hiking stories
over exotic cocktails on the terrace before indulging in another exquisite meal
fit for royalty! (Tough job but someone has to do it!)
Discovering Cheese
and Wine and the Culture of Bressanone
Saturday morning I dress bravely in a summer dress with bare
legs and sandals to tour the cultural attractions of the charming city of
Bressanone with the delightful Deborah from South Tyrol Tourism
Arriving early, we huddle together outside the forbidding
grey concrete bunker, which was ingeniously converted post-war into a cheese
storage facility. The gloomy, chilly sky starts to spit rain and I’m regretting
my choice of flimsy clothing.
Rob, a former choirboy, refuses to sing us a song to pass
the time but finally Josef, the Cheese Maker, arrives in his trusty little car
with his dainty little dog. A lanky man with a thick moustache and no English,
Josef hands us hairnets and shoe covers before we enter the bunker, giggling in
our quirky attire!
Phew! Our nostrils are assaulted with the pungent odour of
thousands of blocks of cheese maturing on shelves in the dank recesses of this
unlikely tourist attraction. Deborah translates Josef’s explanations of the fermenting
process, which can take up to three years and how he meticulously turns each
cheese three times a day! Such dedication gives us a genuine appreciation of
the art of proper cheese making!
And now for the yummy part! We visit Degust speciality cheese shop in the
fancy little village of Varna and young Martin turns on an appetising cheese
tasting explaining the subtle flavours of each cheese to accompany the light
fruity white wine. I purchase a creamy pear-sweetened camembert to take home to
share with my husband, Andrew.
By mid-day the grinning sun has burst through grey clouds
and turned the sky to baby blue, with whimsical cotton wool clouds dancing
across the mountaintops. Standing on the terrace at the vibrant Kofererhof restaurant,
I savour the perfection of this idyllic scene, stunned by
the beauty of the neat rows of leafy grape vines nestled within emerald hills.
We are served a hearty lunch. As I devour my delicious
homemade gnocchi, we
The region needs loyal returning visitors and is keen to
attract new British first-timers to discover the joys of this blessed region
with its culinary and cultural delights of musical festivals and unsurpassed
outdoor activities including glorious skiing in winter and thrilling mountain
biking events throughout the summer.
Next stop is the Abbey of
Novacella, a monastery and wine growing estate founded in 1142 with 85
hectares of elevated vineyards. Our debonair host Andreas greets us for a tour
of this impressive Augustine sanctuary. Inside the Bavarian Baroque-style
church the towering walls and ceilings are adorned with joyous paintings, celebrating
redemption (not sombre depictions of Christ’s suffering) while outside, the placid
green hills are graced with tidy rows of hand-nurtured vines. The immaculate winemaking
complex sparkles with the latest equipment, where 700,000 bottles of unique wines
are produced annually.
Andreas is a retired architect from Germany who migrated to
the gorgeous
Already well-sated, we pile in the car and head for the
historic city of Bressanone
(also called Brixen) with flamboyant tour guide Luciano who shows us the
charming Baroque buildings, the medieval cathedral and former Bishop’s palatial
residence, now a fascinating museum.
We stroll the sunny laneways amongst trendy boutiques, cafes
and markets before settling in for an exquisite cuisine at the stylish Vinoteca Vitis part of the Finsterwirt
exclusive restaurants. I chose the tantalising Vegetable Tartare followed by a
heavenly dessert of fresh mango and chocolate mousse. Such gourmandising has
left us all buzzing on the drive back to Ortisei for our final night in the lap
of luxury.
Sunday morning before a scrumptious breakfast, there’s time
for a relaxing float in the crystal salt dome with soothing underwater music!
How can I go back to my mundane life!
We travel in comfort in a Mercedes Benz taxi van to Verona Airport
for the return flight to London and then, for me, a reflective slow train home
to Kent, with my belly and heart full of European splendours.
Fact box
Accommodation:
Rooms at Adler Balance start from Euros 518 per person sharing a double room
for a weekend break (Thursday to Saturday inclusive) and include ADLER BALANCE
vitality cuisine, «AGUANA» water world, ADLER FIT, sports and leisure
programme, underground car parking and all other ADLER inclusive services, such
as daily guided hiking and biking tours. Book online at www.adler-balance.com.
Getting there: BA,
easyjet and Monarch from London Gatwick to Verona, on a daily basis, fares
start from £100, then a private transfer, hire car or public transport (train
& bus) to Ortisei; easyjet from London Gatwick to Innsbruck, certain days
per week, fares start from £100, then a private (75-minute) transfer or hire
car to Ortisei.
