Here we
are, a mixed bunch of British journalists, five of us seasoned travellers aged
over 50 with a bottomless supply of well-honed travel tales to trade and two
enthusiastic, bright young women in their 20s, savvy with languages and online
smarts. We flew out of UK airports on effortless one-hour Swiss flights
followed by an easy two-hour train ride from Zurich on our Swiss Flexi Passes
to Luzern, the heartland of glorious Switzerland, all set for a carefully
designed five day tour organised by Thomson Lakes and Mountains.
Our
mission is to experience the picturesque lake and mountain region in the gentle
summer months, when the majestic mountains are lush and verdant and dotted with
bell-clanging cows. The locals joke with the tourists: “Why do Swiss cows wear
bells? Because they haven’t got horns!”
The destination, famous for winter skiing when the snow-draped peaks are over-run with
neon-clad skiers, is now transformed to a lake-centric playground in mid-July.
Summertime and the living is easy.
Lake
Lucern is 38 kilometers long, 250 meters deep in parts and the fifth largest
lake in Switzerland. Tiny Switzerland with a population of eight million and
landmass of just 350 kms by 220 kms is landlocked by Germany to the north,
Austria to the east, France to the west and Italy to the south, cradled
lovingly by mountains and laced with tranquil lakes that feed the human
psyche’s need for reassuring views of water.
After a
pleasant night at Hotel Waldstatterhof, it’s Wednesday and Day One of
sightseeing with the focus on nature’s spectacular beauty. If the
metaphor for Lake Lucern is a jewel, in summer this precious stone is jade. The
opaque milky green depths are so mesmerising, so still and serene the throng of
tourists on board the sturdy paddle steamer with the captain aloft on his
trusty perch, exude a sense that all is well with the world as we chug along
absorbing the panorama of all-encompassing, snow-capped mountains and quaint
villages that dot the shoreline.
We are blessed with perfect weather, although when we dock
at Vitznau and take the dainty cogwheel train up to Mount Rigi, the cloud cover
obscures views of the mountains but we don’t mind because lunch draws us inside
to the Restaurant Hotel Rigi-Kulm. After an appetising main meal we discover
that the child-like joy of delicate Swiss icecream!
And then, another Swiss custom, not exactly an action
sport, but a sedate activity ideal for older travellers; an exquisite float in
the warm baths of the Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad. Us girls don our
swimsuits and enter the gentle embrace of the clear water and wade around
trying the different massaging jets and then glide outside to sit in the
soothing pool on top of the world gazing at the surrounding mountains; a sneak
preview of Heaven!
Feeling
refreshed we head down the mountain in our bright red cogwheel train, enjoying
the ineffable scenery, and then another jaunty boat ride in the breeze.
Dragging
our luggage through the busy streets we move to the Ambassador and are warmly
welcomed by hotelier Ferdinand who also runs the superb Lapin restaurant where
that evening we devour gourmet delights. The master chef is happy to oblige
with a special vegetarian meal for me, and exquisite seafood for my fellow
diners and a sampling of unique local wines.
Almost Missed the Boat
Well
maybe it was the wine that muddled my brain because before bed I put away my
watch in my jewelry bag in the bathroom and next morning I’m relying on my
iphone, which is still on UK time, one hour behind! So when I waft downstairs
for breakfast the rest of the group is ready to set off! Startled by my mistake
I quickly attack the buffet and taking my last swig of coffee, I watch in
dismay through the window as my group vanishes around the corner. Young
Jennifer, our tour leader, comes to my rescue and we charge off after them. But
when we reach the bridge I look across at the waiting boat and realise with a
groan I’ve forgotten my ticket, neatly tucked away in my suitcase!
Now only
recently I started jogging classes at the fitness club back home in Kent so
Jennifer and I sprint through the crowded streets back to the hotel. I grab my
ticket and we sprint to the boat and jump aboard just as it’s pulling out! We
literally almost missed the boat by seconds! With my heart thumping and
struggling to breathe, we give each other a high five. So this is my own little
taste of ‘extreme’ sports. My jogging coach will be so proud!
After the
drama, our intrepid group settles in for the cheerful cruise to Bechenreid.
There’s only one way up the mountain to Klewenalp; in a cableway capsule,
pressed close and cosy like commuters in the London Tube.
To my
delight we meet impressive young Australian woman Rachel who speaks fluent
German in her role as Communications Manager with Ricola. As fellow Aussies we
swap stories about ‘back home’ before Rachel gives us an informative talk about
the company that makes herbal drops for the world! We see sample garden beds of
the 13 herbs that go into their natural products and learn that around 100
mountain farmers grow the organic herbs for Ricola in a generational business
that has flourished for 80 years.
At the
friendly restaurant on Klewenalp, we are treated to a hearty traditional lunch
of cheesy macaroni with potato, topped with fried onions and served with apple
sauce! It’s a Swiss favourite on freezing days when your body needs a carb load
to beat the cold! Luckily I’m wearing stretchy pants! And of course this
mountain of mountain food is followed by a massive serve of chocolate, caramel
and hazelnut ice cream! Bang goes the diet!
We all
loosen our belts on the boat ride back to our hotel and freshen up before our
next attraction, a leisurely tour of Lucern.
Enchanting Lucern
On this
balmy afternoon with the soft sun setting across the glistening lake and a
soothingbreeze caressing my bare arms, I am discovering the delights of this
historical city, as our little group strolls around the cobbled streets with
our charming Swiss guide Hanny, whose clear blue eyes and cheerful smile exude
pride in her pristine city. “Yes the citizens of Lucern are very happy!”
she chimes, as we pause to enjoy an orchestral concert in full swing. What’s
not to love about an idyllic collision of rich culture, natural beauty and a
high standard of living!
Camera-snapping,
ice cream-slurping tourists jostle with masses of regal white swans waddling on
the water’s edge. Migrating from across Europe, they too are visiting Lucern
for the summer!
Hanny,
representing Lucern Tourism with true finesse, shows us the modern Culture and
Convention Centre built over water channels and a dramatic fountain, one of 225
that grace the elegant city. The harbour is alive with the hustle and bustle of
colourful boats, docking to unleash swarms of sun-kissed sightseers.
Historic
buildings along the river form a bold skyline as we head towards the imposing
14th century Wasserturn Water Tower and the renowned chapel bridge
adorned with flower baskets.
We visit
the exquisite Jesuit church, built in the 16th century in the
Baroque style as a tribute to St Xavier. The towering painted timber panels
look like peachy marble. The wistful ceiling paintings and ornate columns are
awe-inspiring.
As we wander
around the magical Old City with fresco-painted buildings, we become aware that
Lucern is not your usual stressful, frenetic, traffic-dodging urban jungle. The
quiet streets are free of cars. Relaxed pedestrians stroll and cyclists zip
along amongst horse-drawn carriages.
Hanny
tells us this German-speaking city is also a thriving hub of traditional
festivals, concerts, museums and art galleries that draw culture-lovers like
bees to a honey pot.
That
evening we dine alfresco in a leafy garden restaurant, eating loads of salad
(to balance our macaroni lunch) as we soak up the atmosphere of lovely
Lucern.
Interlopers in Interlaken
Come
Friday it’s time to leave Lucern and take a smooth and efficient Golden Pass
Panoramic train journey to Interlaken, a township sandwiched between Lake Thun
and Lake Brienz at the foot of Mount Eiger, Monch and famous Jungfrau, the
tallest peak in the Bernese Alps.
We meet
our knowledgeable guide Martin in the foyer of Hotel Interlaken and check in.
Wow! I have a spacious luxurious room! Dragging myself away from the enticing
sofa, I join the group to set out in the late afternoon.
Martin
knows the region like the back of his hand and leads us through the
cosmopolitan town, a mecca for thrill-seekers. Gazing skyward we spot dozens of
floating figures of intrepid para-gliders. How about bungee jumping, rock
climbing, white water rafting?
Here in
Interlaken, all levels of fitness and ages are catered for with a range of
activities to suit everyone from adrenalin junkies who leap off mountains and
drift on air currents suspended by archs of flimsy fabric to plodding tourists
like me, whose tastes are more earthbound!
At
Hardenbahn station we pile in the funicular, along with loads of excited
parents and
Tourists
can forget about cars because in central Switzerland the favoured modes of
transport include a range of fascinating boats, cheerful old-style and sleek,
modern trains and cable cars and funiculars that propel curious humans up and
down the steep slopes.
That
evening we meet lovely young Meret from Interlaken Tourism who joins us for a
gourmet dinner at Hotel Interlaken and we learn about her charmed life in this
picturesque paradise. Meret has designed our intriguing itinerary for the next
two days so it’s wise to retire early to be fresh for the action!
For
something really unusual, Martin takes us to the Jobin woodcarving
workshop in Brienz and Flavius, the owner of the family business dating back to
1835, leads a tour of the beautiful sculptures and exquisite Swiss handicrafts.
The detailed works of animals, human forms and historic figures are truly
captivating.
As an added treat, Flavius has laid out a workbench with
little wooden cows for us to paint! Now I haven’t done anything remotely crafty
since embarrassing flops in the high school art room so I was a little daunted.
But I quickly become engrossed in the hands-on experience along with my fellow
journalists who also throw inhibitions to the wind and paint up a storm!
Clutching our little hand-painted cows we stroll around the
idyllic lake surrounded by opulent chalets and watch real artists at work
wielding chainsaws on life-size wooded sculptures.
Taking a bus, we travel to
the next attraction, the Ballenberg Open-air Museum, which draws visitors from
across Switzerland and Europe and far-flung countries to see 250 native animals
and more than 100 centuries-old buildings and gardens set on 163 acres.
After another scrumptious Swiss lunch of massive
proportions, our host Dario takes us for an enchanting horse-drawn carriage ride
taking us back in time. Our driver Evan clearly adores his horses as he gives
them affectionate kisses on the snout!
We stop at the homemade chocolate shop; a perfect
opportunity to buy gifts to take home! Swiss chocolate is as smooth as silk and
as irresistible as Swiss ice cream and cheese made from the contented cows that
graze the alpine meadows.
A nostalgic funicular takes us up the ferny mountain to
Giessbach to view the gushing Three Waterfalls and onward to the elegant
Grandhotel Giessbach where our host shows us through the opulent dining rooms
with heavenly views. Unsurprisingly this stunning mountaintop venue is a
popular choice for lavish weddings.
Some of the more hardy members of our group opt for a
strenuous hike while the rest, including me, return down the mountain in the
funicular followed by a restful boat trip to rendezvous at the outdoor
Restaurant De Luc, specialising of course in the freshest fish for my
companions and a generous serve of veggies for me! A brass band assembles at the lake’s edge and strikes up a
rousing medley entertaining the throng of revellers!
What an amazing day, jam-packed full of wonders and
delights! We wander through the peaceful fishing village of Iseltwald to catch
a bus to our hotel and collapse into sweet dreams.
On the final morning of our glorious visit, Martin takes us
skyward in the prettiest red cogwheel railway train to Schynige Platte to view
the Alpine Gardens with 600 species of native plants and gaze across the
glorious Swiss Alps. I am humming the tune to Edelweiss and tempted to burst
into The Hills Are Alive With the Sound of Music and dance like Julie Andrews across the lush mountaintops. These giddy
scenes set your heart racing with sheer exhilaration and you know you have
experienced something truly magical.
For more photos see my facebook album Switzerland Summertime Delights!
Thomson
Lakes (www.thomsonlakes.co.uk; 0871 230 8181) offers 7 nights
half board at the 3* Hotel de la Paix in Lucerne from £889 per person.
Price includes flights from Heathrow to Zurich and train transfers. Regional
airports are available at a supplement from £20 (Birmingham) and £40
(Manchester).
A
week’s half board at the 4* Hotel Interlaken costs from £725 per person.
For
more information on Switzerland, please visit www.myswitzerland.com and www.swiss.com
Lucerne
– www.luzern.com
Interlaken
– www.interlakentourism.ch
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